🚀 go-pugleaf

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_LH93OD6cWk/Ul7uoqsn8XI/AAAAAAAAMRQ/bXCRglZywZY/s1600/10-16-13-combo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_LH93OD6cWk/Ul7uoqsn8XI/AAAAAAAAMRQ/bXCRglZywZY/s400/10-16-13-combo.jpg" width="393" /></a></div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">We look back today and marvel at the elegance of men in the 30s and 40s, whether on a movie screen, drawn into an <em>Apparel Arts</em> illustration, or even in our own family photographs. There are many reasons men of that era seem so elegant. Men then were more accustomed to wearing suits, skilled bespoke tailors were more plentiful and their services more affordable, and the heavier cloth common at the time drapes better than the lightweight stuff used in most of today's suits. But the difference between the suits of that era and the typical modern suit that strikes me most is the cut of the trouser. </div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">The classic trouser comes up to the natural waist, just above the belly button, around where the buttoning point of the coat should be. In the days when men never left their waist uncovered – always wearing a waistcoat with a single-breasted suit – this was important to prevent any shirt showing between waistcoat and waistband. Today the waistcoat is to the suit what a plot is to the Hollywood movie – usually left out, half the time it's included you wish it weren't, and the few times a nice one is used, most viewers are just confused. </div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">With the gradual disappearance of the waistcoat, suit trousers have begun to look more and more like the ascendant blue jean. On the occasional young and slender Italian or Brooklynite, these slim, low-rise trousers worn at the hips can look good in a trendy sort of way, particularly when worn without a jacket. With any element of this perfect storm missing, calamity ensues. If you have any belly at all, low-rise trousers will manage to dip under it, at which point your belt looks like a tummy hammock. If you've got a jacket on, you'll also have a triangle of shirt showing between your jacket closure and belt line. The hammock and the triangle call attention to your middle, while the low rise shortens legs, and neither does anything for your chest.</div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">Despite these shortcomings, the low-rise trouser has achieved near total dominance over the ready-to-wear market. You'll have a hard time finding a trouser in a 36” waist with a rise (measuring from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband) of more than 11”. My bespoke trousers all have a rise of at least 12”. So if you want a truly classic trouser, you'll likely need to have them made for you, in which case you might as well style them correctly.</div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">The ideal high-waisted trousers are worn with braces, as the only thing less attractive than low-rise trousers worn at the hips are high-rise trousers worn at the hips (the thought of low-rise trousers worn at the waist is too painful even to consider), and braces are the surest and easiest way of handling the vexing problem of trouser slippage. This allows them to be worn loose around the waist. Be sure that your tailor reinforces the waistband so that it doesn't fold over itself when you sit down. They should have one or two pleats. Tailored correctly, the pleats will close neatly when standing, and hang down like a plumb line from the waistband to the cuff. No matter what your waist size, trousers made in this style create a straight, elongated leg line. </div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt;">If someone steps forth bravely to question your “grandpa pants,” let them. Your grandfather was likely a damn well-dressed man.</div><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0pt; text-align: right;"><o:p>Words by David Isle</o:p></div><div class="feedflare">
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