🚀 go-pugleaf

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mso-para-margin-left:0in;  line-height:115%;  mso-pagination:widow-orphan;  font-size:11.0pt;  font-family:Calibri;  mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;  mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;  mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;  mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style><![endif]-->   <!--StartFragment--> <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zilIwhjgpgY/Uh-ZXVJFO_I/AAAAAAAAMHo/2U4Lg2aEuZU/s1600/rj+sun+bleached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zilIwhjgpgY/Uh-ZXVJFO_I/AAAAAAAAMHo/2U4Lg2aEuZU/s400/rj+sun+bleached.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In his book <i>History of Men’s Fashion</i>: <i>What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing</i>, my fellow suitable collaborator Nicholas J. Storey mentions sun-bleached shoes.  The usual way to acquire patina is from wear and coats of polish in differing shades applied over years of use but sun-bleaching is another.  There’s something seductive about the idea of sun-bleached shoes in the shop windows of Jermyn Street or other streets where bespoke shoemakers congregated, old display models or bespoke samples that had faded from exposure to the light of day but rested more or less pristine (that is, without the wear that usually accompanies fading and antiquing) and carefully maintained at a high, rich, glossy shine.  Yes, those shoemakers realized the beauty of such shoes and realized the gorgeousness of such, shoes that shouldn’t have to be at the ends of their lives to reach that apex.  Berluti has made antiquing and patination a hallmark of its ready-to-wear shoes, but Will’s beloved Foster & Son of Jermyn Street also will antique their bespoke shoes to approximate the sun-bleaching using a certain amount of work with chemicals to bleach and mute colors.  Indeed, it was in their shop window that I first noticed a gorgeously faded bespoke shoe, whose deep brown had lightened over time to pale café-au-lait, burnished in places to a sheen that appeared to contain hints of celadon green and other colors. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In Paris, there’s a small industry of cobblers doing this sort of thing to new shoes, giving even black shoes hints of blond, bone and bronze.  My understanding, based on a little DIY work, is that it usually requires some form of bleach or other chemical to strip the layers of polish a shoe comes with.  As you can imagine, such harsh chemicals can supposedly burn the leather and affect the longevity of your shoes. While this danger is probably overstated by the shoemakers I’ve talked to, it’s clear that stripping and scrubbing your shoes with bleach is not going to improve their quality and durability.  Thus, for the most part I’ve favored the sort of patina that comes from addition, not subtraction:  from applying darker tones to the existing base color of a shoe instead of removing it with chemicals.  And, of course, the <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/04/buying-character.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patina of time</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Thus, when I ordered my last pair of <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/10/berluti-ate-my-bootmaker.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Anthony Delos bespoke shoes</a> (he made me one pair of boots after that), I gave in to  ill-repressed temptation and asked him to give them a very French patina the way that the genuinely old bespoke shoes in the old 1990s Berluti vanity book looked.  As requested, he applied a beautiful darker patina, whichI realized after collecting them was just a bit off from what I had had in mind and which through my own inability to communicate the ineffable had not come across in my request.  That something lacking was the element of subtraction, the patina of time fading and muting the vibrant colors of my shoes.  Not anxious to burn a new pair of bespoke shoes with chemicals, I went back to the original inspiration that had started old shoemakers on this path.  Sunlight is for more than making fey vampires sparkle.  For the last five years (bar the occasional wearing), these shoes have sat in direct sun and received no polish other than neutral-colored Saphir Renovateur from time to time to keep them from drying out.  They have another fifteen years to go but the result will be bleaching as the Good Lord intended, simply by sunlight, polished and buffed to a high shine.  <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">While this example of sun bleaching may be a bit extreme, there are different forms of craziness out there.  Olga Berluti, who was the frontperson for Berluti until quite recently, used to run a good line in pretentious patter, most of which didn’t bear any examination.  She suggested to credulous interviewers that the thin leather used on Berluti ready-to-wear, the so-called Venezia leather, was bleached by moonlight during its tanning, making it ideally suited for Berluti’s antiquing and patination.  At the risk of overpunning, that is lunatic moonshine. Moonlight won’t bleach anything, at least not on this planet.  Berluti does not tan its own leather so wouldn’t have any direct role in the moon-bleaching process, while there is no nocturnal tannery in Venice that no other shoemaker knows about.  I was about to suggest Olga had been inspired by the astronomer who thought he saw canals, but those were on Mars, not the Moon.  <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Some lovers of fine shoes, Alan Flusser among them, have observed that a beautiful patina on a good pair of shoes can recall the patina on a piece of antique furniture.  Others have objected that they don’t want their shoes to look like wood.  I’ve owned shoes that came in flat solid color as well as a few with pronounced antiquing when new, along with some Edward Green shoes whose antique tones generally fall within the bounds of English restraint.  On the whole, as I get older I find more joy in the patina that things take on over time and use and less joy in pre-made patina.  These, however, were worth waiting for.  Subtraction was only part of the equation.  The work of addition – wear, polish, care and use – will now count too.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">      <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties>  <o:Revision>0</o:Revision>  <o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>  <o:Pages>1</o:Pages>  <o:Words>3</o:Words>  <o:Characters>22</o:Characters>  <o:Company>Dynamic Endeavors | A Suitable Wardrobe</o:Company>  <o:Lines>1</o:Lines>  <o:Paragraphs>1</o:Paragraphs>  <o:CharactersWithSpaces>24</o:CharactersWithSpaces>  <o:Version>14.0</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings>  <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument>  <w:View>Normal</w:View>  <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>  <w:TrackMoves/>  <w:TrackFormatting/>  <w:PunctuationKerning/>  <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>  <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>  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<a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:yIl2AUoC8zA"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=yIl2AUoC8zA" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:qj6IDK7rITs"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=qj6IDK7rITs" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:gIN9vFwOqvQ"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?i=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:gIN9vFwOqvQ" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:4cEx4HpKnUU"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?i=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:4cEx4HpKnUU" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=dtjJJfA0xmE:7twxyOYeUQw:63t7Ie-LG7Y"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=63t7Ie-LG7Y" border="0"></img></a>
</div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~4/dtjJJfA0xmE" height="1" width="1"/>
<p><a href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~3/dtjJJfA0xmE/as-good-lord-intended.html">Link</a>