Thread View: gwene.a.suitable.wardrobe
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Started by Will
Tue, 24 Sep 2013 16:01
The Pleasures Of Vintage
Author: Will
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 16:01
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 16:01
3 lines
27171 bytes
27171 bytes
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cunL9XTNGaM/Uie7YHsP4AI/AAAAAAAAMJs/UzC58GFLwh8/s1600/vintage+3%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cunL9XTNGaM/Uie7YHsP4AI/AAAAAAAAMJs/UzC58GFLwh8/s400/vintage+3%5B1%5D.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Recently a certain expensive tie brand has come to the attention of the blaggerocracy offering the novelty of new ties made out of vintage tie fabrics Unfortunately, the vintage tie patterns involved appear to be the ones we would have flipped through and left hanging in our fathers’ closets years ago. I can understand that in classic clothing, the old has a cachet that can’t easily be explained rationally. Things made in the old manner, such as with ancient madder dyeing or hand block printing, or with old-style materials, like Geelong lambswool, strike a chord with those of us who still half-believe in some lost Arcadia of quality. However, rather than pay a top-drawer new tie price for the supposed glories of the old, I suggest investing, judiciously, in the pleasures of vintage.<br /><br />Clothing catalogs sometimes repeat the line from Thomas Carlyle’s <i>Sartor Resartus, </i>“[T]rust not the heart of that man for whom Old Clothes are not venerable.” A possible play on words aside, there is plenty worthy of veneration –and plenty of heart ‑ in some old clothes, including the ties pictured here, most by one of the best English tiemakers, now out of business, in some lovely but unique designs. The partisans of the fetishistic codified “conservative business dress” movement on the internet forums favor somewhat mannered floral and geometric prints. Many classic Italian tie labels, with their prescriptive idea of the English look, make a specialty of these at their most repressed. Instead of those wretched 1980s-revival paisleys or ultramontane infuriatingly twee little flower prints, the stylized single-color ivory florals on one of the ties pictured here, asymmetric and slightly larger than classic floral prints, are still correct while original and just a bit fanciful. Its deep blue background is several shades lighter and warmer than navy. The other ties pictured feature vintage patterns that remain interesting and pleasantly original despite their classic palettes.<br /><br />Sometimes vintage allows one to experience quality or rarity without the cost of something new, as with a hand-stitched vicuña robe I picked up for a fraction of a percent of the vicuña overcoat recently <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/07/book-review-coat-route.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">described by Meg Lukens Noonan</a>. And hand-made, hand-canvassed vintage suits from Oxxford, for instance, or some bespoke tailors, if you look in the right places, can be found for very low prices relative to their new prices. Granted, they won’t have been made to your measurements, but they’re often in wonderful patterns or materials you can’t find today. Provided their general chest, waist and length measurements correspond to yours, a talented alterations tailor (and dry cleaner) can work wonders. I’ve gone over the lost virtues of some vintage knitwear <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/05/another-obit.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">elsewhere</a>. Double-sided cashmere and silk scarves can still be found new today, usually for a very high price and with silk prints that are generally either variations on paisley or someone’s idea of Art Deco motifs (I’m looking at you, Charvet). You’d almost never find one in a more interesting, more modern pattern like the Op Art-style turquoise spots on the blue cashmere and silk reversible scarf pictured here, by a defunct maker who once supplied the likes of Lord’s of the Burlington Arcade.<br /><br />Of course, there are possible drawbacks to going vintage. Vintage ties are generally a bit shorter than contemporary ties, and somewhat less thick than the fashion has been up until a minute ago, while older ties generally don’t feature the bells and whistles of today’s higher-end ties such as self keepers stitched into the center seam or self tipping. (It’s true that some very old ties were made out of a single silk square folded over itself similar to today’s seven-fold ties, but even those ties can be surprisingly flat compared to new versions.) Vintage cashmere scarves from over 20 or 30 years ago tend to be have about 30% wool mixed in for durability. And while you’re not likely to contract impetigo from a Crimean War greatcoat as happened to one unlucky Swinging Londoner in the 1960s, there’s always the concern that an old suit, for instance, can have more wear and staining than disclosed, or than we would like to think about.<br /><br />There are also a few other less predictable pitfalls to going vintage with a vengeance: a flip Simpsons-inspired quip online about getting my Chester Barrie mohair “tux cheap because Roy Cohn died in it” elicited a personal message from a former employee of Cohn’s wanting to trade memories of that Red-baiter. And I knew I had gotten too caught up in obscure desiderata when I won the auction for a 1920s catalogue from the only Savile Row tailor with a <a href="http://lochnessmystery.blogspot.com/2010/08/classic-sightings-spicers.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">direct connection to the LochNess Monster</a>.<br /><br /><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Still, I try to wear at least one vintage item every day, whether it’s a tie, a pair of cufflinks, or something else. I usually draw the line at vintage shoes, <a href="http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/04/buying-character.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">with one exception</a>. And socks and other undergarments are out of the question. But good vintage suits, such as vintage bespoke from a respectable tailor, may have enough cloth built in in inlays to bear significant alteration or repair. It helps to know the coat length and chest measurements that will fit you best, and depending on how you choose to browse for vintage (in person at Goodwill and Oxfam, at designer thrifts and Junior League stores, or online on auction sites or buying and selling forums), to have a great deal of patience. However, if, like giant peach Sophie Dahl, you can’t stand prospecting for “dead people’s clothes” (in her words), there’s always the example of <a href="http://store.asuitablewardrobe.net/johnbarrymoreseveningscarf.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">the evening scarf pictured</a>, a new scarf directly based on one worn by John Barrymore fifty years ago and now owned by Will.  After some nagging, Will had one of the last quality silk printers in England, Adamleys, make new versions in heavy ivory twill silk with the distinctive black fancy square print, complete with hand-tied fringes. As the new scarf has no physical connection to Barrymore, he’s also less likely to haunt you (I believe there are reports of his spirit frequenting some of the theatres and houses he had occupied while living). As the spirit we wish to conjure is that of bygone (and perhaps idealized) dashing style rather than that of an uneasily deceased ancestor of Drew, that is more than fine.</div><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Revision>0</o:Revision> <o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime> <o:Pages>1</o:Pages> <o:Words>3</o:Words> <o:Characters>22</o:Characters> <o:Company>Dynamic Endeavors | A Suitable Wardrobe</o:Company> <o:Lines>1</o:Lines> <o:Paragraphs>1</o:Paragraphs> <o:CharactersWithSpaces>24</o:CharactersWithSpaces> 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mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} </style><![endif]--> <!--StartFragment--> <br /><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="text-align: right; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Words and photo by R</span>éginald-Jérôme de Mans</span><o:p></o:p></div><!--EndFragment--><div class="feedflare">
<a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:yIl2AUoC8zA"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=yIl2AUoC8zA" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:qj6IDK7rITs"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=qj6IDK7rITs" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:gIN9vFwOqvQ"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?i=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:gIN9vFwOqvQ" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:4cEx4HpKnUU"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?i=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:4cEx4HpKnUU" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?a=0XYGqz9yEAA:UP4DN3OZjZI:63t7Ie-LG7Y"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=63t7Ie-LG7Y" border="0"></img></a>
</div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~4/0XYGqz9yEAA" height="1" width="1"/>
<p><a href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~3/0XYGqz9yEAA/the-pleasures-of-vintage.html">Link</a>
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