Thread View: gwene.a.suitable.wardrobe
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Started by Will
Fri, 25 Oct 2013 16:01
The Elements Of Structure
Author: Will
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 16:01
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 16:01
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3922 bytes
<head><base href="http://feeds.feedburner.com"></head> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/77006417">The Making of a Coat #4 - Cutting the Canvas and Lining</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5306678">Andrew Yamato</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p> Since Schölteâs day, certain tailors have tried to distinguish themselves from their ostensibly fustier peers by âtaking the stuffingâ out of coats and jackets, removing pompous padding and stiff interlinings to create softer, more comfortable clothes for modern living. Itâs a compelling pitch -- in keeping with the last centuryâs narrative of progressively virtuous and vigorous informality -- and it has produced some seriously beautiful clothing from London and Milan to Naples and New Haven. In the echo chamber that is #menswear, however, such âsoftâ tailoring has become somewhat fetishized, leading to exaggerated distinctions between makers and styles which obfuscate the common project of any good tailor: to make clothes which help his or her clients look their best.<P> Anyone whoâs ever handled a modern bespoke coat (or even high quality MTM or RTW) knows that theyâre <i>all</i> pretty soft. The chest may be clean or draped, the shoulders structured or natural, the sleeveheads roped or shirred, but in the end it is primarily handmade construction and the relative lightness of the cloth and canvas used which makes coats supple, regardless of styling. Moreover, where a garment truly <i>needs</i> stiffness (notably the coat collar and the trouser waistband) the really good stuff still has it. <P> In episode 4 of âThe Making of a Coat,â Rory Duffy describes the elements of traditional internal structure he puts into his own coats, and the philosophy itâs based on: that well-tailored clothing should not only complement, but <i>improve</i> its wearerâs figure. Whatever the latest fashion for unstructured coats may be, itâs worth remembering that a core clientele for bespoke tailors like Duffy are men whose irregular proportions preclude buying off the rack; theyâre looking for their clothes to give them a more idealized shape, and structure is how this is accomplished. Structure does not however translate into an uncomfortably heavy or stiff coat; notwithstanding #menswearâs penchant for pinch-testing, the guts of a coat arenât there to be felt, and in a properly cut and balanced garment, they never are. <P> <div style="text-align: right;">Words by Andrew Yamato</div><div class="feedflare"> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?aüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:yIl2AUoC8zA"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=yIl2AUoC8zA" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?aüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:qj6IDK7rITs"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?d=qj6IDK7rITs" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?aüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:gIN9vFwOqvQ"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?iüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:gIN9vFwOqvQ" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?aüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:4cEx4HpKnUU"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?iüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:4cEx4HpKnUU" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?aüe4K_oYPZw:Hzs7sLAmpgk:63t7Ie-LG7Y"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/ASuitableWardrobe?dct7Ie-LG7Y" border="0"></img></a> </div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~4/fce4K_oYPZw" height="1" width="1"/> <p><a href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ASuitableWardrobe/~3/fce4K_oYPZw/the-elements-of-structure.html">Link</a>
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